Tools of the trade

The Pressure Is On

THE PRESSURE IS ON

Here's a brief explanation on why you should probably be paying more attention to your car's tire pressure.

To begin with, having your tires inflated properly prevents blowouts due to under or over inflation.  An underinflated tire can wear from the inside, weakening the sidewall and eventually causing complete tire failure.  An over inflated tire can be problematic as well.  As you drive your tires heat up and when you heat up a container the pressure increases even more, and this could also cause complete tire failure.

An over inflated tire can also wear the tread from the center out thus shortening its usable life span.  And since they are not giving tires away these days, you really want to make sure to maximize your tire mileage by always having a properly inflated tire.

By simply looking at a tire it is impossible to determine if it is inflated properly, therefore, keeping a tire gauge in your glove box is never a bad idea.  They are cheap and you can find them anywhere automotive supplies are being sold.  End of story right?  Not really.

One of the most common misconceptions about inflating a tire is that you just read what the maximum pressure is on the side and then just pump away.  On my car it appears as so:

photo by Darrin Hartford

Filling the tire to the maximum pressure stated on the side is not really a good idea.  While technically the tire can handle that pressure, it is most likely not what the engineers determined the optimal pressure to be.  They spend millions of dollars in research in order to find this number.  All vehicle manufacturers are required to place a label on the car that tells what the recommended psi should be.  Most often this label is located within the driver's door jamb and it looks like this:

photo courtesy of www.autorepairconnect.com 

This label tells you the original tire size, the maximum load rating and what the proper tire pressure is for your particular vehicle.  

It is recommended that you check your tires when they are cold, not after you have driven through the Mojave desert, at least once a month if you are using conventional air to fill them.

Another option for inflating your tires, is using nitrogen.  Your tire pressure will remain constant over a longer period of time.  To find out more about the benefits of using nitrogen to fill your tires click here.

Thanks for reading and of course stay pumped!       

Can You See Me Now?

WIPER BLADES

Can you see me now?

So you're driving on I-70, heading to Kansas City for a Miley Cyrus concert.  But you notice darkness in the sky off in the horizon.  And then it happens.  A single raindrop splats on the windshield.  Then, out of nowhere, buckets upon buckets of rain start to deluge your '79 Lime Green Chevy Malibu wood paneled station wagon.  Oh no!  In a time like this what are you to do?  Turn on your wipers of course.  But as they begin to swipe across your windshield things go from bad to worse.  They're not swatting away the rain as you had hoped, instead, they're just smearing all the bug guts you've been collecting since the 60's all over your windshield.  So, in an effort to make it to the concert on time, you're forced stick your head out of the driver's window and continue to K.C. in true Ace Ventura style...

Don't be that guy.

It is recommended that you, not just check, but replace your wipers once a year.  But, not all wipers are the same and when the rain and snow comes you'll be glad you choose the right blades.  It's not just a matter of convenience, it's a matter of safety.

In today's market place, there are two main types of wiper blades:

photo courtesy of www.tricoproducts.com 

They both work the same right?

Nope, not even close.

Traditional wiper blades are also known as multi contact blades.  They use what Trico is referring to in the left picture as pivoting blade claws to apply pressure to the rubber wiping element as it wipes across your windshield.  Because of this design they do not apply even pressure across the blade and they are notorious for streaking as they age.  The problem gets worse in icy conditions because if ice or snow builds up in these "blade claws"  they won't apply pressure at all, essentially making them useless.  The one advantage, if you can call it that, is that the rubber element can be replaced without replacing the entire arm, saving a few bucks at most.

Oh boy, with savings like that, I can finally afford more concert tickets.

Thankfully, engineers have built a better mousetrap when it comes to the modern wiper blade.  The beam style blade, on the right, utilizes a solid continuous backbone to apply a consistent even pressure along your curved windshield.  This results in superior performance compared to traditional wiper blades.  Another advantage of this design is that it does not allow for snow and ice to build up between the blade arm and rubber element, allowing for constant even pressure in these conditions.  And finally, typical beam blades are in fact aerodynamic, which allows them to handle much higher wind loads.  This means the wind is actually helping to push the wiper blade against your windsheild, further increasing performance.

Both blades however use good ol fashion rubber.  It is true that higher end blades use a premium silicone rubber but the sun's UV will still cause them to rot over time.  So, a vehicle that sits outside will need their wipers replaced more often, regardless of the style you choose.

In the video below it demonstrates how easy it is to replace your worn out and dangerous wipers.  So, no excuses!  Get er done.

      

Top Three Reasons Your Car Will Leave You Stranded

TOP 3 REASONS YOUR CAR WILL LEAVE YOU STRANDED

1.   Tires
2.   Batteries
3.   Cooling Systems

TIRES

Tires are often the most overlooked aspect of any car and they usually only get attention when there is a problem.  When is the last time you took a good look at your tires?  Probably never, if you happen to be reading this blog.  Which is why I bring up this point.  People just assume that if the tire is holding air you're good to go.  You couldn't be more wrong.  There a few things you should check when it comes to tires.

First off, let's talk about tread depth.  The tread of your tires is what actually gives you control of your vehicle and without it you would be sliding all over the place, especially on a wet or snowy surface.  Checking your tread depth is very easy and anyone can do it.  

One way is to use a tread depth gauge like this:

photo by Darrin Hartford

Another way is to use a penny:

photo by Darrin Hartford

If you use a tread depth gauge the measurement is in increments of a 32nds of an inch and anything below 2/32 of an inch requires replacement.  When using a penny, if Lincoln's head is exposed it's time to go tire shopping.  Here's a link that explains this in more detail.

P.S.  When is the last time you checked the air in your spare tire?  Probably never.  What good is a flat spare tire?  Not much.  So, don't forget to empty out that trunk and get some air in that spare!

BATTERIES

So you're running late for school, it's raining, snowing, and there is a tornado filled with serial killers approaching from the West.  You frantically fidget with your keys to gain entry to your car.  You finally get in the driver's seat, slam the keys in the ignition and... nothing.  You car wont start because the battery is dead and now you are too.

Ok, that is a bit melodramatic, but undoubtedly your battery will fail you at the most inopportune time.  That is just life, but this can be avoided.

Most battery failures are due to poor maintenance or old age.  A well taken care of battery can last you up to ten years or more.  Sadly, most car owners will never see anywhere near this lifespan because they never think about their batteries until their car doesn't start.  The average lifespan for a battery is usually 3-5 years for a typical lead-acid setup.  AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries have a far longer lifespan, but cost significantly more.

The more accessories you add to your car (stereo amplifiers, inverters, car alarms, dvd players, Playstations, disco balls, fog machines, laser lights etc.) the more demand you place on your battery, effectively shortening its lifespan.  Many times you will void the warranty of your battery if you have installed a bunch of aftermarket goodies such as the ones I have listed above.

Does your battery look like this:

photo courtesy of www.youtube.com

Then you need this:

And you might also need this (battery terminal wire brush) to get all that corrosion off making sure there is a good and solid electrical connection from your car to the battery. 

photo by Darrin Hartford

COOLING SYSTEMS

What keeps you cool as you drive down the road?  Your personality?  Your shades?  Your leopard skin seat covers?

Maybe, but mostly it is the cooling system of your car which consists mostly of a radiator, water pump, and the hoses that connect the two.  I am not going to go into a detailed explanation on this as it can get very complicated, but let's go over some basics.

Without coolant your car will overheat in a matter of minutes and you will be going nowhere.  If you overheat your car enough, it will warp the cylinder head and that is a very expensive fix, even if you do it yourself.  So, don't do that.  If you notice the temperature gauge start to rise, you need to pull over as soon as possible and shut the car off!

To avoid this, at the bare minimum, you should have the level and condition of your coolant checked once a year.  The color of your radiator fluid can be an early indicator that is time to change it out.  Most, but not all coolant, when new, is a bright green color and has a sweet smell to it.  If it has GM's junk coolant, Dex-Cool, it will be bright orange and Toyota's coolant will be red.  All coolant will turn a dark brown color when left in too long.  This is caused by the coolant rust inhibitors breaking down and allowing your engine to rust from the inside out.

To check what temperature your coolant is rated at, you will need a coolant temp checker like this:

   

photo by Darrin Hartford

  

It is very simple to use.  You simply insert the hose into your coolant, squeeze the bulb and draw coolant into it.  The number of discs that float determine how cold it needs to be in order for that fluid to freeze (you do not want your coolant to freeze).

It looks like this:

photo by Darrin Hartford

Alright, no excuses for being stuck on the side of the road now right?  Haha, if only that were true.  

Free Brake Inspections

Free Brake Inspections

Courtesy of www.fixcarorange.com

Have you ever seen an advertisement like this for a local shop?  Ah, there's nothing quite like the smell of bait and switch in the morning.  In essence this seems like quite the bargain, but in reality it could end up costing you a lot more than you think.

Let thee count thyne ways.

So, you heard a strange noise coming from your car and saw this ad and thought, "Hmm, that sounds like it's not a bad deal."  You go to the shop that offered the free service, fill out their little form with all your personal info, that who knows what they'll do with, and take a seat in their dreary waiting area.

I like to call this waiting area purgatory for the living.

Anyways, as you read your outdated magazine you begin to wonder just how long this might take.  I mean it was just a minor noise the other day no big deal right?  Perhaps not, but you would be surprised with how many services your car all of a sudden needs.

After an indeterminate amount of time you hear you name called as tho you were in a doctor's office and you approach the service desk.  "Well, Mr. or Mrs. so and so, looks like your front end is shot and your rear brakes look bad too.  If you would just sign here we can get started with this work order."

Whoa!  Hold on.  Don't sign the dotted line just yet.  Because you see, once you sign that work order, you are now legally responsible to pay it in full.  No matter if those repairs are needed or not.

First off, I would scrutinize any work order before agreeing to it.  Just like your phone bill, most shops have all kinds of erroneous charges.  For instance, miscellaneous shop supply fees, hazardous disposal fees,  blinker fluid fees, and so on.  Ok, no such thing as blinker fluid fees but you get my drift.  ALL of these fees are arbitrary in nature.  There is no government agency that regulates these fees and they vary greatly from shop to shop.  A good negotiator can argue down the cost of these fees in most cases, provided the shop wants your business.

Another HUGE factor on work orders is the shop's hourly labor rate.  And if there is one piece of advice I give in this post today it would be shop around for the best hourly rate you can find, but be careful if the hourly rate is drastically lower then some of the shops you have called.  Remember, you get what you pay for.  You just need to make sure the hourly rate for the shop you are dealing with is on par with other shops in the area.

Here is a link I found to help determine the labor rate for repairs on your particular vehicle:

Auto Repair Estimates 

               

Check Engine Lights

So, you have a check engine light on what do you next??? 

graphic courtesy of www.tirestoo.com

• FREAK OUT AND PANIC
• PLACE BLACK TAPE OVER IT
• IGNORE IT AND HOPE THE PROBLEM FIXES ITSELF

All kidding aside, the best thing to do is to hook up a code scanner and find out what has caused the light to come on.  This is where the problem starts for most people.  They assume it is a big problem and it will be very expensive to fix. Refer to the list above.  Fortunately, I have some better options for my readers.  So, let's get to it.

One great thing about technology is that after it has been available for a long time the price on it almost always drops considerably.  And with that said, the price on code scanners has followed that trend.  You can grab one on Ebay for next to nothing these days, so the average person should have no problem acquiring one for themselves which I would highly recommend.  However, code scanners are limited in their abilities, they are not magic, and they will not by themselves fix the problem.  They merely give you a starting point to begin diagnostics.

So, how hard is it to pull a code from your vehicle?

It's not.

 All cars made in the last decade and beyond are required to use the same on board diagnostic system known as OBDII.  And the connector is always located very close to the steering wheel, usually located near the hood release latch under your dash, it looks like this:

photo courtesy of www.nissanhelp.com

After it is plugged in, most scanners will start to scan for codes as soon as the key is turned to the power on position.  The scanner will give you all the codes found in the computer and produce a code similar to this: [P0300] and a basic description of the code.  If you do a Google search, a more detailed description can be found to help solve the problem.

Sometimes it is a simple as a loose gas cap, [P0440] in which case, tighten the cap, clear the code and you're good to go.  This is best case scenario of course, and a code such as, [P0300] (random misfire) will require advanced diagnostics in order to correct the problem.

My main point is that sometimes the check engine light is nothing major and does not require a trip to the shop, saving you big bucks.  Even if a trip to the shop is required, it is better to be armed with some knowledge of the issue before you go.  It is just another way to protect yourself against those monster repair bills.

Tips To Find The Right Repair Shop

Finding The Right Repair Shop

Automotive tip #1

What to look for when shopping around for a repair facility.

Aren't all mechanics the same?  Does it really matter where I take my car?

The answer to the first question is a giant no, and if you don't really care about your vehicle, I guess the answer to the second question is a no too.  The range of abilities between different technicians can be worlds apart.  One technician may be a seasoned vet while another may fresh out of tech school thinking they know it all already.  Trust me they don't.

Interesting Story:  I once worked with a tech who was fresh out of automotive tech school, and he assumed his learning days were far behind him.  Then one day he forget to remove the old oil filter gasket before installing a new oil filter.  This is bad.  The car died (engine locked up) 20 miles later.  It was a $5,000 engine, so he was out of a job.  In this line of work I can assure you the little details do matter!

So, how can you determine if you have a reliable technician working under your hood?

Talk to him, or her, as the case may be.  If the shop will not let you speak to the tech who will be doing the service or the tech is unwilling to talk to you themselves, run.  An honest shop will communicate with you.  In most cases you will not be allowed to be in the service area while the repair work is being performed on your car due to insurance liabilities, however, they can and will escort you into the service area to show, as well as, explain what the situation with your vehicle is.  Having someone merely say "Your brakes are bad, better get 'em fixed before they go out on you." is quite vague and doesn't really tell the customer anything.  A reputable shop will take you out to you vehicle to point out exactly what the problem is.  They may also have an old brake pad to show you what a new brake pad looks like versus what an old brake looks like.  And, when you can see the issue it becomes much easier to understand what the problem is.

photo courtesy of www.jantoo.com

Automotive Tip #2  Scare Tactics

Most shops, if not all of them, will employ this method at some point to secure a work order.  I touched on it briefly in the previous paragraph with the quote about brakes.  Since most shops know that the customer really doesn't understand the complexities of a modern day braking system, they will lots of times make the scary statement of "your brakes are bad...".  That makes zero sense.  You should ask "What exactly is the problem and explain it to me in a way that any one off the street would understand."  This isn't to say that everyday folks can't fathom what's going on with their car, it's just that most people don't spend half there lives wrenching on cars, so things just need to be explained a little differently.  I believe it was Einstein who once said "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."

Anyways, back to scare tactics.  Brakes rarely just stop working all together.  Each wheel has it's own independant braking system, so there is some redundancy in that.  Brakes are supposed to gradually wear over time and that is perfectly normal.  Excessive wear is not normal and indicates a severe problem, it is also not covered by most warranties, be careful of the shops that claim "Free lifetime brake replacement...".  Trust me when I say this because it is but one of several tactics to simply get you in the door.  I think I'm starting to ramble here a bit, so I will sum it up.  Be aware of scare tactics that some shops try to use to get you buy things that you really don't need, or could be done at a later time.  Prioritize the repairs.  What absolutely has to be done versus what can wait.

Also, I really hate to say it, but I have seen it plenty.  Scare tactics are used more against female customers than their biological counterparts.  It is absolutely sexist but, unfortunately,  it's just the nature of the business.

Daily Mail Article "How to beat the sexist mechanic"

There is something you can do about it though.  First, if you feel you have been discriminated against report the shop to the proper entity,

Secondly, get a second opinion.  I can't stress that enough.  You have every right to refuse service for any reason.  Until you sign the work order, you owe the shop nothing, period.  Don't think that just because your car is up high on a lift with the wheels off that your stuck doing business with them.  Not true.  It may be a hassle to go somewhere else, but it may also save you big bucks.

Let's get started...My First Blog Post

If I can blog it, You can do it

photo by Darrin Hartford

Welcome to my very first official blog!  My name is Darrin Hartford and I have always had a knack for fixing things.  What kind of things you ask?  I'll fix anything really, from a cheap Chinese toy, all the way up to a classy Corvette and beyond.

As with most things in life, the more you do it, the better you usually get at it.  I'm not really sure when I picked up my first screwdriver and started to dismantle the house, but I would guess I was about three or four years old.  As I said, I've gotten a lot of practice.

So, what good is it to learn all this stuff  and then not share it with the rest of the world?  Well, if I didn't, when I'm gone, all that hard earned experience would expire as well.  So, I'm hoping that this blog not only teaches you a thing or two about the mechanical world around you, but I'm hoping to learn from my audience as well.

I'd like to focus on three main topics throughout this blog: Automotive tips and repairs, Household repairs, and DIY projects that can be done inexpensively at home.

Please take a moment to take the poll that I have setup for these blog topics.  The poll is located in the upper right corner.

It literally takes just a few seconds and it would really help me out in determining what my audience is interested in or not interested in as it were.  If no one seems interested in any one particular topic, I will just skip that topic and create a new one.  And, of course, any suggestions for a topic are more than welcome.

Topic ideas?

Please feel free to e-mail me at:
darrin.hartford@gmail.com

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